LuPix_S15
Banned Toyota Lover
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- 14 April 2007
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Ok guys...
Thought I'd try my hand at some sort of quick reference guide since this forum has helped me out a lot over the past 12 months - ever since I got the 'modding bug' lol
As with a lot of owners on S15OC, I've recently upgraded to much wider wheels... for info they are Rota GTR's 17 x 9.5JJ ET30 all round. Rears fit like a treat since there's loads of room even at +30 offset. However, the fronts at +30 are just touching my Tein coilovers so I've had to order some 10mm spacers which come with longer studs.
So here's how I managed to swap round the studs which are essential when using spacers as you lose too much thread for the wheel nuts when the spacers are added - maybe you can get away with original studs if only 5mm spacers are used but 10mm+ forget it unless you want your wheels to fall off on hard cornering :no:
1. Take off your wheel, remove brake caliper and brake disc...
2. Pick any stud and bash it out with hammer. All my original studs came off with a good smack lol but you may want to WD40 them if you're having trouble. Only start with ONE STUD... DO NOT bash all of them out at once!! Here's an image to compare the lengths of the original stud and the new one supplied as part of the H&R 10mm spacer package...
3. With only ONE STUD taken out, place the new one in it's place... then with this new stud held in place by one hand (it won't stay straight unless you hold it), put the brake disc over all the studs as if you were putting the brake disc back on the hub etc. With all the studs showing, get around x10 M12 washers (yes I mean ten of them buggers haha) and put these over the new longer stud.
Then on top of the washers put the original wheel nut on the new stud and start tightening the wheel nut. As you tighten and press against the washers it will pull in the new stud through the splines and go as tight as you can (will be difficult towards the end as the brake disc starts to rotate but go tight as you possibly can)...
4. Loosen the wheel nut off and take off the washers from the new stud. Remove the brake disc and then check on the other side to see whether the new stud has located properly - you might still see a tiny amount of splines on the new stud which means it has not 100% gone through but as long as most of it has been pulled through you're ok Can you see why we only work on ONE STUD at a time lol? Yes, cos if you bash all the original ones off you can't use the brake disc to help locate the new stud and give you extra width to pack on washers and tighten the wheel nut at the end!!
THANKS TO DEANS15 :thumbs: IIRC who helped provide this tip (although he said use single M12 washer and nut to pull through without use of brake disc but the M12 nut I bought didn't seem to have correct thread so I created this alternative version hehe).
So work one each stud at a time and use same technique to locate and pull through everytime so yes, you'll have to do this x10 if you're spacing out the front wheels. Once new studs are all on (make sure you check each one has pulled through ok otherwise go back and re-tighten the wheel nut over the washers again), you're ready to put on the new spacers...
5. Don't forget the new spigots if you have them... easily forgotten!! And hey presto, you have new wheels with new spacers
Thought I'd try my hand at some sort of quick reference guide since this forum has helped me out a lot over the past 12 months - ever since I got the 'modding bug' lol
As with a lot of owners on S15OC, I've recently upgraded to much wider wheels... for info they are Rota GTR's 17 x 9.5JJ ET30 all round. Rears fit like a treat since there's loads of room even at +30 offset. However, the fronts at +30 are just touching my Tein coilovers so I've had to order some 10mm spacers which come with longer studs.
So here's how I managed to swap round the studs which are essential when using spacers as you lose too much thread for the wheel nuts when the spacers are added - maybe you can get away with original studs if only 5mm spacers are used but 10mm+ forget it unless you want your wheels to fall off on hard cornering :no:
1. Take off your wheel, remove brake caliper and brake disc...
2. Pick any stud and bash it out with hammer. All my original studs came off with a good smack lol but you may want to WD40 them if you're having trouble. Only start with ONE STUD... DO NOT bash all of them out at once!! Here's an image to compare the lengths of the original stud and the new one supplied as part of the H&R 10mm spacer package...
3. With only ONE STUD taken out, place the new one in it's place... then with this new stud held in place by one hand (it won't stay straight unless you hold it), put the brake disc over all the studs as if you were putting the brake disc back on the hub etc. With all the studs showing, get around x10 M12 washers (yes I mean ten of them buggers haha) and put these over the new longer stud.
Then on top of the washers put the original wheel nut on the new stud and start tightening the wheel nut. As you tighten and press against the washers it will pull in the new stud through the splines and go as tight as you can (will be difficult towards the end as the brake disc starts to rotate but go tight as you possibly can)...
4. Loosen the wheel nut off and take off the washers from the new stud. Remove the brake disc and then check on the other side to see whether the new stud has located properly - you might still see a tiny amount of splines on the new stud which means it has not 100% gone through but as long as most of it has been pulled through you're ok
Can you see why we only work on ONE STUD at a time lol? Yes, cos if you bash all the original ones off you can't use the brake disc to help locate the new stud and give you extra width to pack on washers and tighten the wheel nut at the end!! THANKS TO DEANS15 :thumbs: IIRC who helped provide this tip (although he said use single M12 washer and nut to pull through without use of brake disc but the M12 nut I bought didn't seem to have correct thread so I created this alternative version hehe).
So work one each stud at a time and use same technique to locate and pull through everytime so yes, you'll have to do this x10 if you're spacing out the front wheels. Once new studs are all on (make sure you check each one has pulled through ok otherwise go back and re-tighten the wheel nut over the washers again), you're ready to put on the new spacers...
5. Don't forget the new spigots if you have them... easily forgotten!! And hey presto, you have new wheels with new spacers
