Yeah I will be doing all that, it safe to run as a direct swap with only breathing mods done? Only for about 3,4 weeks till the next payday, but my turbo is definitely on the way out and needs replacing, would be a waste to buy a stock one then have to buy the uprated one 3,4 weeks later as well
you can fit it but I'd not be driving the car without the above mentioned parts, you will be running rich at the bottom and lean up top so it'll drive like ass but if you need to I'd say it 'might' be ok if you keep revs below 3k but I wouldn't risk it. buy all the parts and fit them all at once to be safe. I wouldnt want to risk an engine like tha but it's your call
You'll be fine running the turbo for a bit, just remember your right foot will become the boost controller so you'll need to pay attention to the boost gauge, as long as you behave yourself all will be fine!!
As long as it comes with adjustable actuator put it to 0.5bar of boost and you should be fine. Cant see there being a problem as you will be running as the same as a standard turbo. I could see it being a problem if your running 1bar on an uprated turbo and then everything standard, your just gona have lots of lag.
I currently run the HKS GT RS, basically the same turbo bar the HKS badge on it. Im running at 0.7bar with bigger injectors, fuel pump and other mods and its laggy but pulls really hard. Cant wait to get it mapped to about 1-1.2bar.
So just need an adjustable actuator @ 0.5 bar, do I need to get it mapped too? So I'll need the ecu? As money's the problem (as always) so can't get all the parts at once just need to replace the dying turbo, after the next payday I'll be getting: intercooler, fuel pump and regulator, new clutch and flywheel, bigger injectors, ecu, decat pipe,bov etc
Clutch and flywheel you mess well wait till it starts sleeping then replace it.
Im running NIStune if you go on h-dev.co.uk it will have the different mapping software stages on there and prices. For injectors and MAF sensor your going to need a tune before you can run them mods.
At the end of the day a turbo is a mechanical item its the same as the standard turbo in the sense of the job it does its just developed to handle more power and produce more power. So if you keep the boost at 0.5 bar to be safe, you will be running like a standard car just more lag as its bigger. The ECU won't no difference could possible run lean if your boosting like a nutter and changing at 7k but driving normal and just watching your boost gauge it will do no harm what so ever.
Probably advice you to get a boost controller as well, but I'm just running a HKS adjustable actuator set to 0.7 till i remap it then i will get a boost controller.
The main mods you won't to do first is fuelling once you can afford it, e.g Walbro 225, 555cc or 740cc depending on power you want, you won't need a fuel pressure regulator unless going for mad power the standard is fine.
Then i would advice to go for breathing mods next so Z32 MAF, performance air filter, FMIC.
As for exhaust system for now just get a 3" exhaust on it decating and down pipe won't be needed until your ready to remap it. All that the exhaust does bar making it less restrictive is just shorten the lag time.
Then for your BOV, recirculating would be best or if your not going over 1bar a lot of people do the pigeon mod just basically block of your BOV pipes and run the boost back out the turbo. Different debates about destroying your turbo and what not but a lot have seemed to agree below 1bar it won't do any damage.
Just a thought, the sr20det's are an internal waste gate, so doesn't that mean I'll need a new manifold to be able to fit the alternator, which means a new down pipe needs welding, who's done this turbo and alternator swap before? What work and time does it take?
Im sure you mean actuator? not alternator? or I'm ****ed if i know lol. As far as I'm aware your standard turbo should have an actuator just not adjustable? on mine all i have is a high flow manifold and a 3" down pipe rest just bolted together, i think you need braided oil and water lines as well.
All turbos are internal the GT28 is internal, external is where you have an extra pipe of your manifold to which you fit a wastegate. No real need for this its main object is to stop boost creep but with running low boost 1bar - 1.5 bar should have no boost creep really.
Look at the bottom of your turbo near the dump pipe you should see the actuator it will have a boost pipe leading to it. Thats what you replace with an adjustable one. Should fit all the same as before no modifying needed.
Yeah I meant actuator so just to get this right, getting a high flow manifold, braided lines, the turbo, a 3 inch down pipe and the adjustable actuator I'll set at 0.5 bar for now, the only work apart from bolting is the welding of the 3inch downpipe?
Yer thats right you won't need to weld a 3" down pipe should just be able to buy a 3" down pipe with the same flange as the turbo and bolt it straight on.
HIGH FLOW MANIFOLD
Just purchase them and bolt it all together, only problem i can see is matching the down pipe to your exhaust already on the car. Mine has a sort of neck funnel which is on the end of the exhaust so allows a 3" down pipe to connect to a 2.6" exhaust. Where is if you have a 3" down pipe and 3" exhaust should bolt together.
Have a word with Adam L on here he's just put the same turbo on his S15 so could run through it a bit more in depth for you.