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How to make the 15 handle like its on rails?

S

S1Five

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cant wait till i get my car serviced and the front lowered a tad more and then ill start adjusting around probably adjusting them harder to maybe
14 front
10-12 rear

but i might try an extreme of say 18 front 14-16 rear and see what it feels like hehe just want to see how hard these babies can go
 
M

MazzyMan

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cant wait till i get my car serviced and the front lowered a tad more and then ill start adjusting around probably adjusting them harder to maybe
14 front
10-12 rear

but i might try an extreme of say 18 front 14-16 rear and see what it feels like hehe just want to see how hard these babies can go
Mobile human vibrator! :D
 
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Internal injuries is all I've got to say. LOL

Not sure on this but I've heard that having too hard suspension is no good for the chassis. Damper is designed to absorb the shock from the road and if u dial in too hard, the stress will divert to the chassis. You will also put more stress on the other suspension components as well. No point increasing the stiffness if you have stock chassis(not seam welded), stock swaybars etc etc. It's how coilovers like F12R10 springrates will actually worsen the handling on a stock car. They compliment each other to give that on rail performance. Not just the coilovers. But good luck in adjusting your collies. I'm jealous. :)
 
M

MazzyMan

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Internal injuries is all I've got to say. LOL

Not sure on this but I've heard that having too hard suspension is no good for the chassis. Damper is designed to absorb the shock from the road and if u dial in too hard, the stress will divert to the chassis. You will also put more stress on the other suspension components as well. No point increasing the stiffness if you have stock chassis(not seam welded), stock swaybars etc etc. It's how coilovers like F12R10 springrates will actually worsen the handling on a stock car. They compliment each other to give that on rail performance. Not just the coilovers. But good luck in adjusting your collies. I'm jealous. :)
You are right...but sadly if you get something normal and when the need arrives and you dun have it...that sucks.

I guess since most coilovers allow damping control than perhaps dial the damping low while on regular road driving and turn it up when the need arrives...like in track days.
 
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Well they say only cheap coilovers give adjustments. That's why all those dodgy china/taiwan coilovers can adjust 36ways or something. Good coilovers dont need to adjust that much. Something bout bump and rebound. But I'm too shallow to understand what it means so yeah....
 
S

S1Five

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for the ones who have tein flex on their s15, how many clicks do you get for dampening for front and back?

i read on the tein website it says 16 clicks? but when i changed to softest then turn towards hard, front i count 26 clicks? and rear i get 22


edit: while i was browsing other threads around forums reading about different front rear tyre sizes affecting understeer etc, wondering has anyone gone from using say front 235/x/x and rear 255/x/x and then went back to say 235 all round and felt if the car handled differently? i believe the term is staggered tyres?
 
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M

MazzyMan

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for the ones who have tein flex on their s15, how many clicks do you get for dampening for front and back?

i read on the tein website it says 16 clicks? but when i changed to softest then turn towards hard, front i count 26 clicks? and rear i get 22


edit: while i was browsing other threads around forums reading about different front rear tyre sizes affecting understeer etc, wondering has anyone gone from using say front 235/x/x and rear 255/x/x and then went back to say 235 all round and felt if the car handled differently? i believe the term is staggered tyres?
Actually putting settings aside the concept of having the rear wider than the front induces oversteer.

However even with a staggered set up, you are supposed to have the front wheel in perfect line with the rear. What i mean is if you bend down and look at the front and rear wheels, they are supposed to be in line.

The larger tires in the rear kinda just helps for better grip. Ultimately measuring tire contact to the road is also crucial. some cars go wide but when you measure the contact patch, its much smaller than that of what they installed.

I have never tried same size tires on a RWD before.
 
S

S1Five

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another coilover question,

are we meant to always start from hardest or softest

because on ns.com some guy emailed tein and tein said to always go from hardest and turn from there towards soft (anti-clockwise) and set your dampening like that..
 

Nicely

Moving on...
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Personally, I'd try it softest for a few days, then hardest for a few days. This will let you know both extremes and you'll be in a better position to find something in between :)
 
S

S1Five

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no wot i meant was, before we do any desired settings

do you always reset it back to softest and click clockwise towards hard or whenver you want a new setting you turn it hardest and then turn anti clockwise to your desired dampening level
 
M

MazzyMan

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no wot i meant was, before we do any desired settings

do you always reset it back to softest and click clockwise towards hard or whenver you want a new setting you turn it hardest and then turn anti clockwise to your desired dampening level
Good to turn it back to zero than dial it back up again just in case you mis click either side.

I normal do that everytime i change the damping.
 

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Tein told me to set them to their hardest then work back until i found a good level i was happy with, worked well :thumbs:

Just put my name down for a new set of coilovers :)
 
S

S1Five

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thx topper that was the answer i was looking for do we start from hardest or softest =)

cheers i have confirmed it with a few ppl that tein ones should start from hardest not sure for others..
 
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Internal injuries is all I've got to say. LOL

Not sure on this but I've heard that having too hard suspension is no good for the chassis. Damper is designed to absorb the shock from the road and if u dial in too hard, the stress will divert to the chassis. You will also put more stress on the other suspension components as well. No point increasing the stiffness if you have stock chassis(not seam welded), stock swaybars etc etc. It's how coilovers like F12R10 springrates will actually worsen the handling on a stock car. They compliment each other to give that on rail performance. Not just the coilovers. But good luck in adjusting your collies. I'm jealous. :)
Thats why I don't upgrade to poly bushes! Mines got Nismo Tune suspension with yellow springs and blue dampers with fixed compression & rebound; A cusco front strut and the standard rear brace.


Front:
Caster N/A
Camber -1.9
Toe - 0.5mm/side

Rear:
Camber -2.4
Toe - 1.5mm Toe In

Find this gives almost best set-up for me on the road with excellent high grip while cornering and great handling at high speed and lane changing - makes for safe driving on the road (have to avoid pot holes like a jedi though) and great fun drifting on track. Tyres are by far the most important thing though, biggest reason is weather (both meanings) the tyres you have are track (road legal) orientated, wet or dry (various brands) and the compound. I have tried my fair share of tyres and 'cos of the weather here its hard.

The above set-up looks odd but for the road/track its best combo for me. The fronts still wear the outter edge quite bad so I'm going another 0.2 on the neg camber but may be happy with .1 as it gives a decent contact patch for braking.

The rears make it jump around in low grip conditions and it was wild driving on snow few weeks ago kinda hoping off cats eyes and it would need a tiny bit of opposite lock over and over - pretty good fun actually.

Just changed tyres from conti top line to barums (conti second brand) but only on the rear and they feel like the compounds the same but 'cos the pattern is a wet tyre (the premiums are dry focused and look a bit F1 with not much channelling just grooves) it gives loads more gipe cos they heat up more. They've got loads more grip than the Yokos I had on before - loads more. Contis still on the front to keep the braking feel as the barums move around loads in the dry. They have a softer sidewall too so effectively puts the balance a little to the front (cos of the overall spring rate change).

(snow driving was with yokohamas which legally needed changing soon at the time).

215 front 235 rear which also makes huge difference to be able to run more neg camber without too much trade off - cept on the snow - lol

Due to all the different factors including and importantly how quick you go through tyres each set-up can be different and good - all my geometry is within whiteline suggestions though. :)
 
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unsprung weight

Anyone worked out the unsprung weight of the stock (ish) set-up with 17" wheels?

Also has anyone seen a source for tyre weights? Could take some scales to the tyre place but I walk garages through jobs on the car anyway so it may be a liberty to make them weigh the tyres I may want.. lol
 
J

Jap Heaven

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I have a set of Tein on My S14 before and they were classed as the Street/Drift Adjustbable coilovers. HR or HS or something, has anyone used them ?
 
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