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Replace diff? ABS?

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I'm planning an LS3 swap into my S15 and have a couple of questions re the diff and ABS. (Yes, I know, it's sacrilege, my apologies.)
The car is an Australian delivered 2002 RHD Nissan 200SX Spec S (mechanically equivalent to a JDM S15 Spec R I believe).
Plans involve a stock GM crate LS3 (430 hp, 425 lb/ft), Sikky Swap Kit, Sikky Wiring Harness, Tremec T56 Magnum transmission & Sikky Alloy Driveshaft.
I've ticked the ABS option boxes on all of these which brings us to the diff.
1. Will the existing diff handle this lot or should I upgrade? The car will be street only with no plans to drift or race, but I won't be able to resist giving it a bit of stick occasionally.
2. What are the ABS implications with a non OEM diff?
3. What are the ABS implications with non OEM brakes?
 

drifter

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Diff will be strong enough, it’s the same R200 in the S14 and I’ve never known anyone to blow one up. They get changed only to fit a better locking diff, assuming yous has the helical diff that the spec r has I’d keep it as is. I track mine with around 500bhp with no problems.


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Just to add, if my SR blows up I’d be going LS as well so good choice. Would be great if you post up pics as you go through the change.


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Diff will be strong enough, it’s the same R200 in the S14 and I’ve never known anyone to blow one up. They get changed only to fit a better locking diff, assuming yous has the helical diff that the spec r has I’d keep it as is. I track mine with around 500bhp with no problems.


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Thanks for this, it gives me some comfort. The S15 has always had this great 'corner on the throttle' feeling that I thought had a lot to do with the diff, so I did want to keep it. And I'll definitely keep you in the picture, so to speak.
One further question while we're at it please? I was tempted by the LS376/480 crate engine (495hp, 473 lb/ft), which is the 'stock' LS3 with a hotter cam. With the Sikky headers, that should get me a nice round 500hp I'd think. But I thought that might border on unstreetable. I don't want to be accidently lighting up the rear end when overtaking for example. I'm thinking 18 x 8.5 wheels all round as I don't want to mess with the bodywork, preferring to keep it as a 'sleeper'. Your thoughts on this?
I currently think I'll take the 'conservative' path with a 'stock' LS3 and see how it drives. I can always add a warmer cam later if desired.
Cheers.
 

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To be honest that’s what I’d go with to keep the power similar to what it’s at now, but the delivery of the power will be completely different. The V8 will have tonnes of torque from idle so will be more likely to spin up compared to the laggy SR at low rpm. I still think it’ll be okay though, just need to be sensible. As you say though, ca always go up in power in steps, get the base engine and see how it goes, might be fast enough anyway.

Tyres I’ve currently got 255 on the back with 18 x 9.5” wheels which grip well. That’s with using Federal RSR tyres though which make a big difference, although beyond bad in the wet.


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To be honest that’s what I’d go with to keep the power similar to what it’s at now, but the delivery of the power will be completely different. The V8 will have tonnes of torque from idle so will be more likely to spin up compared to the laggy SR at low rpm. I still think it’ll be okay though, just need to be sensible. As you say though, ca always go up in power in steps, get the base engine and see how it goes, might be fast enough anyway.

Tyres I’ve currently got 255 on the back with 18 x 9.5” wheels which grip well. That’s with using Federal RSR tyres though which make a big difference, although beyond bad in the wet.


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Thanks for all the good feedback.

Yes, it was the extra torque that had me a bit antsy about how streetable the LS376/480 was going to be. So I think I'll sneak up on it by starting out with a base LS3 and see how that drives first.

As for your wheels, my feeling was that 18 x 8.5 was about the best I could manage without body mods. What was required to fit your 18 x 9.5s? Presume you have coilovers and lowered a bit? How does it ride, I really don't want to be bumping and scraping about? Lastly, is it track, street or both?

Apologies for all the questions but the info is much appreciated.

Cheers,
KD.
 

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9.5 on the back fit okay with just the arch lip rolled. It will only catch if you get air lol so could do with maybe 5mm more offset. Fronts are 9” and to run a 245 tyre I had to go to 30mm wider wings. I’ve only got about 2mm clearance to the coil over so no option to move them in.

It is lowered on Bc racing coil overs at the moment, but I do have my eye on a set of KW clubsport. It’s mainly made to do track, but gets used on the road as well, definitely not a daily driver. Ride at the moment isn’t to bad with 8/6 springs, probably a bit hard depending on the roads around your way.


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drifter

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Had the old girl properly cleaned


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9.5 on the back fit okay with just the arch lip rolled. It will only catch if you get air lol so could do with maybe 5mm more offset. Fronts are 9” and to run a 245 tyre I had to go to 30mm wider wings. I’ve only got about 2mm clearance to the coil over so no option to move them in.

It is lowered on Bc racing coil overs at the moment, but I do have my eye on a set of KW clubsport. It’s mainly made to do track, but gets used on the road as well, definitely not a daily driver. Ride at the moment isn’t to bad with 8/6 springs, probably a bit hard depending on the roads around your way.


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I probably should start a separate thread for this but you're keeping the good info coming so I'll push my luck (happy to be an LS3 test dummy for you as payback?).
The car will be a regular driver with some country roads involved. So as far as the suspension and wheels are concerned, comfort before performance I think. And looks probably come before both. We do have a 2010 R35 and a 73 Morgan Plus 8 in the stable so I know what firm is all about. Firm is fine but no crashing, bashing or scraping please.
Given the LS3, I want to get a fair bit of rubber on the road, and I don't really like the cambered look so it's zero to minimum camber I think (not to mention the tyre wear). And wanting a comfortable ride, that seems to lean towards the stock suspension. But then the looks factor cuts in, and they do look nice lowered a couple of inches with say 18" wheels. So on go the coilovers and there goes the camber and possibly comfort. Argh, everything's interdependent!
So my current thinking is dropping it say 2" with coilovers on a softish setting with 18 x 8.5 all round. But the camber's bugging me, not sure how much this would introduce and thinking it starts to get messy dealing with that.
As for the wheels, rolling the guards is acceptable, but if necessary that implies a low margin of error for scraping etc. Happy to go wider than 8.5 on the back if achievable with a margin of error, and narrower on the front to achieve a margin of error.
I realise your car has a totally different focus but any good info is appreciated. I can cut and paste this into a new thread perhaps.
Cheers,
KD.
 

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Camber wise I’ve got 1deg in the back and 2.5deg on the front, there’s no additional wear on the tyres. It’s more toe that can cause tyre scrub imo. I do drive on some shite roads and it doesn’t scrap or run tyres, probably would with soft springs though. There’s a bit of room still on the inside so if the wheels had slightly more negative offset they’d never touch the arch’s even when I catch a bit of air on a shit bridge.


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drifter

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Just to add if you are dropping it low then slow for alignment arms all round and roll centre adjusting ball joints. That’ll keep the geo good and help get rid of bump steer etc.


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Just to add if you are dropping it low then slow for alignment arms all round and roll centre adjusting ball joints. That’ll keep the geo good and help get rid of bump steer etc.


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Camber wise I’ve got 1deg in the back and 2.5deg on the front, there’s no additional wear on the tyres. It’s more toe that can cause tyre scrub imo. I do drive on some shite roads and it doesn’t scrap or run tyres, probably would with soft springs though. There’s a bit of room still on the inside so if the wheels had slightly more negative offset they’d never touch the arch’s even when I catch a bit of air on a shit bridge.


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Yes of course, softer setting = more travel = more chance of bottoming/scraping. I wasn't thinking straight.
 
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