I can get you a guarded switch but it may not be able to take 30A. I'm no electrical expert but I think most things we use have relays so aren't designed to take high current. I'll have a look at work tonight though 
Andeep's 1999 Silvia Spec R "S15 FTW"
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If you could that would be great mate! I just needs to be a normal toggle switch (SPST) that can take 30amps.
LuPix_S15
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Andeep - I've been wanting to install a kill switch for the fuel pump for a while now so I think I'm gonna be picking your brains lol!! First thought is that when I recently killed fuel pump just before swapping the fuel filter, I used a fuse diagram which showed the fuel pump fuse was one of those small green ones on one of the corners of the fuse box located in the driver's footwell. How come you're wiring up to a large fuse in the engine bay box?
Is this because you are bypassing the old fuel pump fuse and live wire setup and using all your new cables with a bigger fuse so it's more reliable etc?
I'm just about to post a new thread since JameS15 and I have decided on DWYB for 6th October... will you be at this one? If so be great to meet up and see how you've done this as well :thumbs:
BTW - your roll cab looks immense. I went for the Halfords deal on their regular red chest and cabinet since they also sold the top chest free if you bought the rest haha
First thought is that when I recently killed fuel pump just before swapping the fuel filter, I used a fuse diagram which showed the fuel pump fuse was one of those small green ones on one of the corners of the fuse box located in the driver's footwell. How come you're wiring up to a large fuse in the engine bay box?Is this because you are bypassing the old fuel pump fuse and live wire setup and using all your new cables with a bigger fuse so it's more reliable etc?
I'm just about to post a new thread since JameS15 and I have decided on DWYB for 6th October... will you be at this one? If so be great to meet up and see how you've done this as well :thumbs:
BTW - your roll cab looks immense. I went for the Halfords deal on their regular red chest and cabinet since they also sold the top chest free if you bought the rest haha
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I'm running a live cable straight from the battery, so this will need a fuse incase it shorts. When you're running any voltage from the battery, regardless of the current you need to put a fuse. The stock fuel pump fuse are still being used, but it won't draw a lot of current since the power is now coming from the new wire running from the battery. The stock fuel pump wires is connected to the relay, and so is the new uninterrupted power supply. So when the stock fuel pump wiring has a signal sent to start pumping fuel, it flips a switch in the relay and the power now comes from the battery.
Yep I will most probably be going to the one on the 6th of October mate :thumbs:
Yep I will most probably be going to the one on the 6th of October mate :thumbs:
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LuPix_S15
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Ah I kinda understand... thanks for detailing that!
So you can basically put a kill switch somewhere along the new live feed from battery to relay/pump? I gather you are using the stock fuel pump wire as a 'trigger' for the relay by the pump which now gets it's live feed from the battery?
I'm just learning all this leccy business - pretty new to me haha :wack:
Yeah cool will be great to meet you on 6th and get pics of you skidding
So you can basically put a kill switch somewhere along the new live feed from battery to relay/pump? I gather you are using the stock fuel pump wire as a 'trigger' for the relay by the pump which now gets it's live feed from the battery?
I'm just learning all this leccy business - pretty new to me haha :wack:
Yeah cool will be great to meet you on 6th and get pics of you skidding
I had a look but couldn't find anything that will take 30A. The most we have is around 10A.
Great idea putting a kill switch in, I would be a bit nervous about doing it though as electrics isnt my strongest point so would proberly end up breaking something!
Your garage looks great to, very nice set up you have there :nod:
Your garage looks great to, very nice set up you have there :nod:
No problem Craig. I've found these ones:
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electron...gle-Switches/SPST-LED-Tip-toggle-switch/74542
Gonna order a few as they are quite cheap!
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electron...gle-Switches/SPST-LED-Tip-toggle-switch/74542
Gonna order a few as they are quite cheap!
If they are like the ones I have at work (I would 100% bet they are) the switch guard is actually seperate to the switch, so all you need is the guard.
I could tell you how I know this, but I would have to kill you.
andeep: those switches look pretty cool.
Finished off hardwiring the Walbro today.
Heres Part 2 of the guide:
You will need to remove the electrical tape that is wrapped around the wires that go to the fuel pump:
There are 2 sets of wires together, one that powers the fuel pump, and the other to read the fuel level. You want the wires of the smaller plug:
So take the insulation off and locate the black/yellow wire. Make sure that its just black and yellow and doesn't have pink patches on it. Cut the wire in half:
Then crimp 2 suitable connectors onto the 2 ends:
The relay looks like this:
You will need to connect the following wires to the following terminals of the relay (there are numbers next to the actual terminals on the back of the relay):
30 - New feed from the battery
87A - Not used
87 - Black/Yellow wire that goes to the pump
86 - Ground
85 - Other Black/Yellow that you have left, this will serve as a trigger
Connect up the 2 black/yellow wires and the new constant 12v feed from the battery:
I made a new longer ground wire as I couldn't find a suitable point to ground to. Take off the boot lining:
A few holes that you can put a bolt and nut through and attach the ground wire:
Make sure you remove the paint and expose the metal:
Finally, double check all the connections, then bolt the relay down. The metal mounting plate on the relay doesn't need to be grounded incase you were wondering.
I might relocate the relay as some point as I put wheels in the boot and they might hit the relay.
I also bought a toggle switch, so waiting for that to come.
Heres Part 2 of the guide:
You will need to remove the electrical tape that is wrapped around the wires that go to the fuel pump:
There are 2 sets of wires together, one that powers the fuel pump, and the other to read the fuel level. You want the wires of the smaller plug:
So take the insulation off and locate the black/yellow wire. Make sure that its just black and yellow and doesn't have pink patches on it. Cut the wire in half:
Then crimp 2 suitable connectors onto the 2 ends:
The relay looks like this:
You will need to connect the following wires to the following terminals of the relay (there are numbers next to the actual terminals on the back of the relay):
30 - New feed from the battery
87A - Not used
87 - Black/Yellow wire that goes to the pump
86 - Ground
85 - Other Black/Yellow that you have left, this will serve as a trigger
Connect up the 2 black/yellow wires and the new constant 12v feed from the battery:
I made a new longer ground wire as I couldn't find a suitable point to ground to. Take off the boot lining:
A few holes that you can put a bolt and nut through and attach the ground wire:
Make sure you remove the paint and expose the metal:
Finally, double check all the connections, then bolt the relay down. The metal mounting plate on the relay doesn't need to be grounded incase you were wondering.
I might relocate the relay as some point as I put wheels in the boot and they might hit the relay.
I also bought a toggle switch, so waiting for that to come.
I think you better relocate it soon as from memory, relays are to be kept in an upright position as they sometimes tend to get stuck. All OEM relays are in the upright so try and keep it that way. Good job nontheless
.
Will defo look into that!I think you better relocate it soon as from memory, relays are to be kept in an upright position as they sometimes tend to get stuck. All OEM relays are in the upright so try and keep it that way. Good job nontheless
I made a switch panel today to house the fuel pump switch and also other switches in the future.
I just used a 25amp switch instead of a 30amp. It should work fine.
I just used a 25amp switch instead of a 30amp. It should work fine.
LuPix_S15
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Awesome dude!!
Love the motorsport look but yeah can be wrapped in CF vinyl like mine... cracking workmanship tho :thumbs:
Love the motorsport look but yeah can be wrapped in CF vinyl like mine... cracking workmanship tho :thumbs:
Cheers for the comments guys.
Yeah will probably put some carbon wrap on it and put nicer bolts later on.
Yeah will probably put some carbon wrap on it and put nicer bolts later on.
Gutted mate youve done loads of great stuff to it! If its gotta go its gotta go though I spose..
Yep, pretty gutted too. But if it does sell, I can't wait to get another Silvia and build it to proper competition spec.
How come you cant with this one? Is it because its your daily driver aswell so you would rather sell it buy a run around and also buy another silvia and use it just for drifting?
You should consider an S14 as you would have more money to upgrade stuff then
You should consider an S14 as you would have more money to upgrade stuff then