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FMIC (boost controller?)

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I've tried reading into this and not finding a lot of information.

I've got a FMIC installed and it going in for an MOT/TAX/Insurance soon ready for summer :)

Do I need to get a Boost controller with this FMIC? Just wondering what other people have done as I've heard just fitting an FMIC can cause boost problems afterwards. I've been considering a manual boost controller to keep cost down as I'm not planning to tune the car heavily.
bought the FMIC more for aesthetic purposes.

also, I've used a small micra battery turned vertically to make room for the pipeing, but with the battery like this it seems very difficult to fix the battery in place with the original fixing. what have most of you done to solve this? :)

Thanks guys!
 

Jaydej

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Hey mate I'm running a fmic without boost controller you don't need it to use and drive the car, it may cause you to run abit rich (which has happened to me) I'm going to get a boost controller later on but only when I go to get it remapped. You may find you get a tiny bit of lag because of they extra piping but it is perfectly fine to fit on and drive around
 
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I had an issue with securing the battery also Ryan. The neatest solution i have come up with is to install a battery box, bolted to the battery tray. Something like this:





It will be just a case of finding the correct size battery box for your battery/battery tray area.

I fell lucky as 'Tooley' was selling his battery box he had custom made for use in his boot, but measuring it up it will fit in my engine bay with a little modding (cutting off the outward pointing mounting tabs)

Should look great once powdercoated black and new bolts installed




Measure your battery tray area and your battery, then browse eBay for a suitable box - there are tons listed on there :thumbs:
 
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That looks a good idea! Have to get it measured up on my day off.
Until then I got some universal battery brackets in the post which is probably useless...but then it was only £5.
 

tooley

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Fine to run, But your car will be much slower as the boost will be on oem setting. So you will be trying to push a higher volume of air over a longer distance with the same pressure.

Ideally you want: for stage 1

Walbro 280 lt/h fuel pump
Boost controller
Decat exhaust
Air filter
FMIC

Bost should then be set to 1 bar not 0.7 OEM


Dave,

My Dave will be sending the tray out today.
 
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Looks like a just a Electronic boost controller and a fuel pump short then.

Not sure its would be safe to get a manual boost controller until I can get a electronic boost controller, fuel pump and a remap done?
 

tooley

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It will be safe as long as you have a boost gauge so you can see it does not spike. I have been running a manual boost controller on my nissan stagea for the last 3 years! Although ive just bought a blitz SBC.
 
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Thanks tooley, might just do that for the time being then!

Just need to try and fix that damn battery in place now, I cant find the original battery bracket either! fml.
Could have found another way to use it.
 
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Just realised now as the car had a few rattles that I haven't bolted the mount for the washer bottle at the bottom because the pipe work for the fmic is in the way.
Its stayed in place alright without it being bolted to the car so I may just remove it, Double check to see if its held in place anywhere else first.

I'm a :censored:..

The car makes quite a vibration when idling, I can feel it travelling up my arm when holding the wheel...
 

Jaydej

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Just realised now as the car had a few rattles that I haven't bolted the mount for the washer bottle at the bottom because the pipe work for the fmic is in the way.
Its stayed in place alright without it being bolted to the car so I may just remove it, Double check to see if its held in place anywhere else first.

I'm a :censored:..

The car makes quite a vibration when idling, I can feel it travelling up my arm when holding the wheel...
maybe ball joints? if its not related I hade the same problem and was that
 
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