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Unstable Boost - Using Blitz SBC I-Color

wutang200

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I'm getting very fecked off with this EBC now & Blitz for not giving proper instructions on which pipe goes where on the solenoid!!!

It won't hold boost at all. Keeps creeping with revs. Tried various settings starting from SET 10 GAIN 5 but no luck.

Tried turning EBC off and still creeps and if I've set it to boost from around 0.8bar onwards then it creeps, spikes big time & makes a loud whooshing noise coming from cold pipe while the car starts to misfire and hesitate. If I turn the EBC to SET 10 GAIN 5 then the problem is gone so it seems boost related.

Pressure tested the car to 20psi and not a single leak detected before anyone mentions I have a boost leak.

Swapped the pipes over on the solenoid and put SET to 10 and GAIN 5 and car holds 0.7bar very well with boost tailing off towards end of revs which is fine. No whooshing noise either. Tried to increase SET to 20 and GAIN 10 but car won't go past 0.7bar still. Set GAIN a bit higher to 25 and car will hesitate on boost with the whooshing noise and spike badly to 1.1bar.

What I want to know is what pipe goes to IN and what goes to OUT?? I've looked in the manual and it doesn't clearly state which pipe goes where in there.

I know some of you have this EBC or the SBC ID3 so please get back to me and let me know the correct way the pipes should go in.

Pics and vids below:








 
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Nicely

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Hmm. Is the S14 three feed style canister fitted to the ADM S15s? Its not possible to take that feed off the two feed JDM S15 canister.
 

wutang200

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OK so basically I need to connect the boost pipe that's coming out of the actuator to the OUT connector on the solenoid and connect the boost pipe coming off the intercooler cold pipe as seen in my pic above to IN?

I've already tried this and the car boost creeps and spikes badly. At the moment I have the pipes connected the other way round and it holds 0.7bar perfectly but won't allow me to increase the boost properly.

I'll get a video posted up soon as I get a chance to go out and do some more testing.
 
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3 feed,two to the TB/plenum side,one from the fuel tank. ADM had different emission requirements to JDM at the time due to ADR's(Australian design regulations) and fuel quality back then(98octane was not available)
 

Nicely

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Yes to Wutang's question.

I'd say one thing though. I struggled for months trying to eradicate the spiking on my Blitz SBC iD3 (exactly the same solenoid). In the end it turned out to be the solenoid. As soon as I fitted the HKS EVC, it was rock solid.
 

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could possibly be the length of your hoses being too long?

what happens when you try auto mode?
 

Yakozan

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Kinda sounds like a boost leak but as you've already tested for that I don't know what it could be really.

The hoses doesn't look very long so I doubt it's that. I ran a much longer hose to the cold pipe on the drivers side and didn't have that problem when I had a Blitz with my old S15.

Maybe it's something spark related?
Coilpacks? Spark plugs?
 

wutang200

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I'm also suspecting a dodgy solenoid. Not sure if the actuator is gone too.

Have booked it into an SXOC approved garage so will see what they say.

Plugs are nearly brand new and only a month old. Definitely not the coilpacks as I've checked them all one by one when I had a previous misfire and replaced faulty pack no4.

Hoses are pretty short so definitely not that.

What if I bypass the EBC and use a bleed valve temporarily to see what happens? Would be much cheaper than buying a new EBC to try out.

If this is possible how would I plumb this in? Would I connect it between the IN and OUT pipes that go to the solenoid?
 

Nicely

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Yes, a bleed valve would be ideal. You'll need to add it in-line with the EBC though, unless you have an accurate alternative to read the boost.
 

wutang200

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In regards to this I found out that one of my IC pipes that connect to the TB was not seated properly which was causing a massive boost leak.

I've now got an FMIC fitted this weekend just gone and boost holds much better with the creeping minimised big time so will be doing some further boost testing this weekend to fine tune it. Will post up videos soon.

Also have a HKS actuator to fit which should help stabilise the boost even more.

Thing with the WMIC is that I used to get random readings the hotter it got so I might begin with 0.9bar but after about 3 runs, it would read 0.8bar or even 0.7bar.
 

wutang200

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Damn the problem is back!!!

I have now fitted a second hand HKS actuator and just look at how horrible it's made my boost curve:

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid10.photobucket.com/albums/a118/wutang200/S15%20Silvia%20Spec%20R/04122009.flv">

This is with my EBC completely switched off in 5th gear. The lower gears are even more erratic.

Do I have a faulty actuator??
 

wutang200

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Just to update this thread, I didn't know how to adjust the actuator properly so I realised afterwards that the 10mm nut needs to be loosened in order for the arm to adjust inwards.

I adjusted it by a few turns and boost still comes in late after 5k. I've set the EBC up so that I get 1.00bar by 3500rpm, 1.05bar by 4500rpm, 1.10bar by 5500 rpm, then around 1.15bar with boost tailing off after this. This is the only way I've managed to get the boost coming in early. The gain is set to almost max setting with set on around 37.

Have now adjusted the arm inwards by half a turn to see how I get on.
 
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Have you tried the self taught feature on the blitz unit instead of trying to set it up yourself., will drive like a bag of spanners for the first few runs, and knock like **** but does exactly what it say on the tin.
It will self teach and hold boost well, had same problem with my own also had a f**ked actuator on the turbo causing boost leak once changed and after 20 r so miles runs spot on now. You have already changed that with a HKS actuator ya.
Keep at it anyway lad, savage when it does run well
 

wutang200

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I did try it before the HKS actuator but it was all over the place so then I set it back on manual mode.

I'll try it on the Auto mode for a while and see how I get on.

I've now adjusted the HKS actuator inwards by another half turn so will see if that's made much of a difference or not.

I think it could just be me asking for too much as I was comparing the boost behvaiour to my previous S14a which was mapped properly so it could be due to this car not being mapped why boost doesn't come in earlier.

I can easily keep up with my mates Supra Twin Turbo.

Anyway I'll give the auto mode a bash at some point and see how I get on.
 
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