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How to: Check S15 Fault Codes - Paperclip Method

craig8585

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Whilst helping justin666 with his non-starting S15 last week, he showed me how to flash up fault codes on the S15 ECU. I wasn't aware it was possible to do this until last week so here's a quick guide for everybody else..



Nissan ECCS allows you to read any stored fault codes without any specialist equipment.


The diagnostic plug on S15's is located near the drivers right knee behind a small panel.



Please read all the following instructions in full before you attempt to carry a fault code read out.



  1. Switch the ignition to the ON position but do not start the car.
  2. Depending on its orientation of the consult plug (see below) bridge the two lower left, or upper right pins on the consult plug with the wire paper clip for 5 seconds, then remove the bridge.
  3. Observe and write down the sequence of flashed produced by the engine check light on the dash.
  4. Once you are satisfied you have all the fault codes bridge the consult pins again (basically, repeat step 2) and this will erase any stored fault codes and revert the ECU back its normal operation. It is important you carry out this part or the ECU will continue to repeat the stored codes.


Understanding the fault code readout:

ECU fault codes are displayed on the engine check light on the dash and are displayed by the number of flashes as well as the speed of the flashes.
For example, an ECU showing no recorded faults will display code 55. The first digit is shown as 5 long flashes (tens) followed by a pause. This then followed by the second digit - 5 short flashes. Thus Code 55.


11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12- Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 - Ignition Signal.
22 - Fuel Pump.
23 - Idle Switch.
24 - Throttle Valve Switch.
25 - Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 - Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 - ECM.
32 - EGR Function.
33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 - Knock Sensor.
35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 - EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 - Knock Sensor.
38 - Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 - Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 - Throttle Position Sensor.
45 - Injector Leak.
47 - Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 - Injector Circuit.
53 - Oxygen Sensor.
54 - A/T Control.
55 - No Malfunction.
63 - No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 - No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 - No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 - No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 - No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 - No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 - Random Misfire.
72 - TWC Function right hand bank.
73 - TWC Function right hand bank.
76 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 - A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 - VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 - Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 - TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 - Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 - EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 - Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit
 
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Cant wait for the day when you can plug the iPhone into the consult port, with the suitable app, and read all your codes...................it will happen
 
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Well I've just done it, and it showed 3 long flashes and 4 short flashes

34 - Knock Sensor

Reset the codes - went for a drive, tested again.

34 - Knock Sensor

So it's a recurring fault. Would a Knackered knock sensor cause my lack of power?

Of if it isn't knackered, and it's doing it's job lol, what would trigger the knock sensor?​
 

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Timing being out will cause the engine to ping and the knock sensor to register a fault, would also 100% cause your lack of power issues if the timing is out
 
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I've had a mooch about on google and found a thread on DW, listing the same problems.

He replaced the same stuff as me, plugs, fuel filter etc.

Here's what he was advised to do-

"you tried resetting the ecu? disconnect the battery for half an hour. sounds like it's switched to the knock map and not realised you've fixed the problem. any stored error codes?"

I've disconnected my battery for the evening and check it again in the morning.

It's so annoying finding similar threads but with no conclusion. I will ensure I follow the thread up once I've fixed it it for future refrence.
 
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Timing being out will cause the engine to ping and the knock sensor to register a fault, would also 100% cause your lack of power issues if the timing is out
Makes sense, I'll make that next on my list if the reset doesn't work dude
 

Nicely

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Disconnecting the battery for the evening, or even half an hour, is overkill. Just disconnect then turn the headlights on and off. Any residual power will be removed and the ECU will reset.
 
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Well reconnected the battery, anD took it for a test drive. No real change

I then did the paper clip trick again, and it again came up 34 - knock sensor

so its either still triggering the knock sensor or it hasn't reset. I've left the battery off now till tomorrow morning.

Not sure which direction to go in now, other than check the timing.
 
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craig8585

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If you don't mind, Craig, I might add this to my site...?
Please do :)


So it's a recurring fault. Would a Knackered knock sensor cause my lack of power?

Of if it isn't knackered, and it's doing it's job lol, what would trigger the knock sensor?
To your first question - Yes, it certainly would. A friend of mine had this exact problem and it felt horrible! Jez Horsham bypassed it for him so it was running without a knock sensor and solved all his problems. I'm not sure how he did it or even where the sensor is TBH.

But..

To your second question - If you are getting knock it would be because of fuelling when you increased the boost. Basically it would be running very lean and causing pinking/det. You really need to get it RR'd to check the AFR's out. I really would drive very carefully until this is done.



Glad this thread is of use to you all :)
 

LuPix_S15

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Disconnecting the battery for the evening, or even half an hour, is overkill. Just disconnect then turn the headlights on and off. Any residual power will be removed and the ECU will reset.
Cool bit of info there dude... never knew that one! :thumbs:


Craig - this is awesomeness but will it work on my 14a?? Think I'd like to check regularly for faults. I do have a grey consult plug on the driver's side front footwell next to the fusebox :)
 

Nicely

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Thanks Craig. I'll give credit to both you and justin666. :)

I've added a photo of the plug location into your write-up :thumbs:
 
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well as i said, i left it to reset. re-connected the battery, did the paperclip trick before starting it - 55- no fault

test drove it - still showing the same symptoms.

I then did the paperclip trick again - 34 - knock sensor

Ive just ordered a brand new Bosch O2 Sensor, which will be here in a couple of hours.

I got under the car to check any other sensor's

I noticed this. the sensor that is supposed to be on the cat has been blocked up (using a wheel stud lol) and you can see the earth braid it broken and not attached.



will this cause any of my symptoms? also, where does the loom for the sensor go back to a plug, as i can't see any wires?


ALSO - does the S15 run a single o2 sensor? as the only one i can see is on the Turbo Elbow (which im replacing) i know some cars run two
 
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In sure I read if you earth the lead to that sensor (which is not there) it will fool the ecu.
But if my lead has not been earthed, I wonder if it would cause my fault.
 
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doing some more reading it's apparent that SR20DET knock sensors do go faulty, a pretty common fault by the looks of it. if the o2 sensor does not cure it, i will try and change the knock sensor itself.

Whilst looking for the location of the knock sensor (underneath the inlet manifold) i noticed a yellow connector, with no plug attached

here is a picture, apologies for the poor quality



should it have a plug attached? it looks to be on/near the oil filter housing
 

S15_SAM

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The only thing I can see close to that area is a sensor which screws into the oil cooler modem, which is what the oil filter is attached to. So may be a plug for that, but mine isn't yellow.
 
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Well just fitted the new O2 sensor. Reset the ecu. Reconnected the battery.

Did the paper clip trick to check the codes had reset - 55 - no faults

Went for a test drive, no noticeable change. Definite lack of power, although There's a kick at 5k where the power increases.

Returned home, did the paper clip trick again - 34 - knock sensor

Not sure where to go from here. The knock sensor is going to be an absolute b**^h of a job to change!
 
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