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Removing STD Dump pipe

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Swapping my my stock dump/front pipe and cat this weekend for a full 3" dump and cat, was wondering if anyone had any tips for getting the dump off the back of the turbo?. Looks like it's gonna be prick of a job. Cheers in advance.
 
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i actually attempted it today (without removing the turbo). You first have to remove the 02 sensor bracket and unplug the o2 sensor. Next remove the exhaust manifold and turbo heat shields. The top 3 bolts of the dump pipe can be removed from the engine bay by creative use of extensions, swivel sockets and open-ended wrenches. The bottom two were actually missing on my car, but im pretty sure you can manage to loosen em with a small open-ended wrench.

The install was a b#itch. The dump pipe i got was horribly-made, so i could only put 2 of the 5 bolts on...the pipe didnt sit flush, the bolts couldnt be put back on since the piping was in the way, and the stock bolts were too long for the flange. Ive also heard that the 2 bottom bolts are nearly impossible to put back on depending on the pipe. I gave up and put the stock one back on.

One more piece of advice: If youre installing a dump pipe and front pipe, install the dump pipe first instead of installing them as one unit. Its alot easier this way.

Hopefully ur install goes well unlike mine.
 
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Its no worries... its just hard to install by yourself if its one unit. Just have a friend hold it up underneath the car, while you thread in the bolts.
 

LuPix_S15

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I found it hard to get proper access to tighten things properly so anything relating to turbo elbow I'd just take the whole lot off... you just have to go through the added pain of loosening off the turbo coolant lines as well as the oil lines but it's an ideal time to upgrade to braided ones ;)

I always thought there are 2 studs and nuts on the top of the elbow where you can get access from top of car and there are 3 studs and nuts on the bottom underside where you have to go under the car to remove (if you're not taking it out). The biggest problem if you don't have a well matching elbow is that central stud being too long on the underside as this is where the elbow will bend almost 90 degress downwards. Either cut the stud shorter, use shorter bolt or just don't bother with this at all. 4/5 nuts/bolts will be plenty of security for the turbo/elbow flange.

As said it sounds like most owners have been driving around (like myself) with missing nuts cos they come loose easily due to the constant hot/cold cycle (and they should always be high tensile steel parts as well) :wack:
 
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Yeah Ok. I think your right with your stud count, 2 on top and 3 on the bottom. That all sounds along the path I was gonna take.

Cheers Fellas

Keep you up to date on the progress, might even do a bit of tech thing on the job as I go.
 

meddler

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are you fitting a CES dump pipe?
 

meddler

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cool...remember to soak your nuts in wd40 the night before!!!

the turbo nuts I am talking about :p
 
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I found mine not too bad to change without removing the turbo. I jacked the car up on to a spare set of wheels so that I could lie down underneath it and see what I was doing.
When I put the new one on, it came with 5 new studs. Once the studs were installed into the turbo, it's easy to locate the elbow, then it's just a matter of spinning on the nuts.
One of the bottom nuts needs doing first before you push the elbow right back, or there isn't room to fit it in between the elbow and stud.

The only special tool I used was a stubby spanner to do up the side nut, as a normal one hit the chassis rail, and I couldn't get it fully tight without the stubby :)
 
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Dump is all off, Cats not long enough. explain more later my computer is running like a pig.
 
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Should get the cat back from the welders tomorrow. Stay tuned for all the highs and lows with some photos.

How tiny is the stock front pipes Dia. Chocker.
 

meddler

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How much was the heat wrap tape? Where did you get it?
 
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I got it from Autobarn. the brand is DEi, I got the 1" x 50' roll and it just made the length. I wouldn't go any shorter than that. It set me back $70. If you shop around I'm sure you could get it cheaper but.
 
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I attempted this today and was defeated by the two lower nuts :(
heat+Jayes pentrating fluid FTW

Also stud all 5 holes from the back of the turbo as makes installing much easier. Alternatively (and what I wish I had done) have a V band welded on to the turbo.

If you are removing the turbo and manifold (uneccessary for bolting a new dump pipe in) then definately change to braided oil & water lines.
 
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