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0.5 boost:mad: ?

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Need some Help Guys :(

Car had been running fine all summer but all the sudden I can only boost upto 0.5 bar, I went round and checked all the hoses but they seem fine. Really havent got a clue where else to check now, could the profec B controller has packed up and causing this??

Where else I should check? The boost is same if I turn the profec B off or on. Car drives fine otherwise just need more boost.

:cry:
 

Nicely

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Check for cracks in the WMIC pipes first, as that's a common thing. After that, it could be a weak actuator.
 
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Thanks I will give that a try :nod:

Whats the best way to check it? I have looked round under the bonnet area, or do I need to take the front bumper off to check this WMIC properly.

I thought most WMIC piping is in metal, so I never thought they will crack so easily :confused:
 

sushiming

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its probley ur actuator mate as i had the same problem aswell, well kinda it sometimes boosted to 0.8 and sometimes just boost to 0.5 then i got the hks actuator and problem gone :thumbs:
 
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Is there a more definate way to test if is the actuator at fault at all becasue I really want to know for sure whats the problem first.

Ming,

How did you find out that its your actuator or did you just buy one anyway to upgrade it. :D
 

sushiming

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yup i just brought it as i was having other work done near it so brought it at the same time and just got the garage to fit it and it works brill now...come its only cost about 80 something pounds and u wont be sorry u got it anyway....its a good upgrade if u dont intend to change ur turbo i would think nicely would agree with that aswell right?
 

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Statistically speaking, it is more likely to be the WMIC :nod: and this is from someone who had a knackered actuator when he bought his S14. You will need to remove the passenger side front wheel arch liner to get to the WMIC. You need to check the pipe all the way round, especially where the bolts are. To be doubly certain, pour washing-up liquid liberally over the pipework and go for a blat, then look for bubbles.

Checking the actuator is more difficult, depending on how far its gone. The actuator arm should be VERY stiff to pull out of the main unit body. If you can pull it out with long-nosed pliers without too much effort, its gone. You have to do the when the engine's cold :nod: And there's a heat shield in the way...
 

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Fitting an aftermarket actuator worth doing then??

Bit off topic i know, but got me thinking.
 

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To be honest, there is no difference if your existing one is OK. If its on its way out, I'd say get a HKS adjustable as its cheaper than a Nissan replacement. If you've got a boost controller, you'll just be setting it halfway and forgetting it.
 
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Ansch

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What specs are the HKS actuators? I thought they start at 0.9 bar mininum?
 
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