Anyone installed rear brake pads before?

[I-nearly-bought-a-batty]

Ok... driving along - then grind grind grind (really loud by the time I got home ). Thought it was a stone in the rotor shield - but no. Pulling the handbrake up or braking stops it momentarily - so it looks like my rear brakes are toast. Sure enough, on inspection the inside pads are about 3-4mm thick doh. Just bought some new pads, but I've never installed them before. Are there any tricks I need to know? Anything to avoid doing? The shop asked me whether the handbrake is connected to the caliper or a drum type mechanism. Apparently, if the cable is connected to the caliper, you can't simply push the pistons back. Instead, you need to screw them in which I hear is a mission. I haven't taken a look at my car yet to check - do any of you guys know?

 

[sushiming]

its kinda easy just had mine done mate just take the two bolts off on each ends and out comes the old pads might need to hit them out depending how long they been in....but the piston u need to screw it back it dont bother trying to push it wont work haha its straight forward mate....if u have done normaly brakes be its the same

 

[Nicely]

Its not something you should try unless you have a decent means of winding the piston back in. You can usually pickup a specific tool for this job from a good auto tool place. People have been known to use long-nosed pliers. This is a bit hit and miss as to whether it'll work...

Here's a how to:

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=159021

 

[Topper]

Recomendations on Rear pads???

 

[Nicely]

Ferodo, Porterfield, Project Mu, etc...

 

[Topper]

Thats three reomendations :wave:

I love the Ferados :nod: but that much brake dust will be a killer. Do they have a short life span?

 

[sushiming]

nope i dont think so unless u drive on the road like ur driving on track everyday....but i have noticed that drift works do the project mu rear ones which are cheaper about 64 plus postage i think which i think is pretty good

 

[Nicely]

You need to make sure they're the NS Street pads. Higher grade ones are crap for road applications.

 

[Topper]

So i need Project Mu NS Street pads ?

 

[I-nearly-bought-a-batty]

thanks Guys. I just did some research prior to reading your posts, so I'm now on the search for a piston winding tool. I heard a rumour that the standard S15 pads are pretty good - some beleive they even use them on race cars? Does anyone know the temp specs of the standard pads? I've done track work on them and they seemed ok - no fade (although I wasn't hammering them). I bought some EBC "Black stuff" pads for the back. I had these on my Mitsi Mivec (front pads), and they were good. The shop advised against me buying the "Green Stuff" pads unless I also change the fronts to "Green". They said I'd lock up the back under hard braking. ABS would stop that, but perhaps it affects the balance / handling of the car under hard brakes - any thoughts?

 

[I-nearly-bought-a-batty]

ok, this sounds like BS to me, but a shop I just spoke to reckon you need to change all the brake fluid at the same time when changing the rear pads as dust etc behind the pistons gets into the fluid and then into the ABS unit causing problems later on. Wha? Sounds very dubious to me - what do you guys reckon?

 

[sushiming]

nope didnt chnage mine...but will in future as i wanna change the brake line hose to briaded ones

 

[paulphot]

Sounds a bit dodgey to me but I changed my fluid with the front pads so I could run Dot5 fluid to match my new Ferodo pads. If you're running the factory fluid you may want to upgrade the brake fluid anyway as I found it softens if your driving hard. Good time to do a change as they have to get the wheels off for the pads, why not do the brake fluid too?

 

[Nicely]

:nod: Briaded hoses and DOT 5 fluid :thumbs:

 

[Yakozan]

I run the stock prake pads.
One thing really great about them is that they hardly leave any dust at all. :thumbs:

 

[Nicely]

That's cos they barely stop the car....

 

[Topper]

I run the stock prake pads.
One thing really great about them is that they hardly leave any dust at all. :thumbs:

Thats cause there crap :wave:

Can recomend better brake fluid :nod:

:EDIT: Should of read page two before posting

 

[I-nearly-bought-a-batty]

Hey Nicely, you wouldn't happen to have the "installing rear pads" section of the service manual handy would you? I had planned to download the manual but I can't at work and have no PC at home - so it's a bit of a mission. If it's easy, that'd be great thanks :thumbs:

I've located the piston tool - so I'm now contemplating taking on the challenge. The thing is, once I've forked out for the tool, I only save $20 on what the shop would charge me. Is the pain worth $20? To tell you the truth, I like to do my own work so at least I know it's done properly. I can see me swearing at it now

Does anyone recommend undoing the bleed nipple when you're screwing back the pistons - firstly to make the labour easier but also so the fluid isn't forced back through the ABS system (which I hear is not good)?

Yeeeessshh - there's always something to do on the silvia eh

 

[Nicely]

Mate, you'd be better following the SXOC guide on the first page. Its identical for the S15 Just use your lovely new piston tool in place of the can opener...

No need to undo the bleed nipple. Just take the lid off the fluid reservoir and keep an eye on the level...

 

[I-nearly-bought-a-batty]

ok, half the pics are missing so I'll use the force, below is an illustration of the possible turn of events...


:indiff: :thumbs:


total elapsed time...3 hours.

It's funny, but the above might be spookliy accurate - you guys know these things are never easy.