Engine Hose Size Guide

[LuPix_S15]

Ok peeps - finally got round to this lol! :wack:

1. Fuel hoses = 8mm
2. Defi boost gauge hoses = 4mm
3. Plenum intake pipe = 70mm
4. Cold pipe/plenum = 14mm
5. Recirc feed = 38mm
6. Breathers = 16mm
7. Boost solenoid vacuums = 6mm
8. Hotpipe = 50mm
9. Recirc/intake = 27mm
10. Rad hose = 32mm
11. Rad overflow = 8mm

All measurements are Internal Diameter (ID). Have fun dressing up!!

James

 

[AllanOrr]

Some guy :thumbs:

 

[Suspect]

Legend! :notworthy:

 

[andeep]

You're a star mate.

Someone put this in the useful threads!

 

[LuPix_S15]

lol no worries guy - as you can prob tell I enjoy this stuff when I got the time

 

[JaseYpk]

i love diy mods like this

where did you get most of your hoses from? i want some pretty colours!

 

[LuPix_S15]

I just use 'Silicone Hose Solutions' IIRC which is eBay seller. Never let me down and good quality stuff :thumbs:

 

[TurboAL]

what a star member! are you sure the throttle body is 64mm? because i've just recently ordered some new silcone hoses all round and am sure i ordered a 70mm one to fit here. now you got me worried? maybe i've got it wrong in my head thou!

 

[craig8585]

Guy at Nemesis Performance is a Samco dealer and a top bloke to deal with. You can find him in the traders section.

 

[LuPix_S15]

what a star member! are you sure the throttle body is 64mm? because i've just recently ordered some new silcone hoses all round and am sure i ordered a 70mm one to fit here. now you got me worried? maybe i've got it wrong in my head thou!

Cheers dude

With the throttle body I didn't remove but instead used my caliper on the metal neck part at the top of my black large vacuum - this seemed like the best place to measure without removing. If you get your 70mm vacuum on your car and it fits fine then please let me know and I'll amend the original post :wack:

 

[meddler]

I think the intake plenem hose is tapered, so you could both be right.

Added as a sticky.

 

[LuPix_S15]

Cheers mate :thumbs:

 

[Nickichi]

Sweet, thx for doing this

 

[ross.johnson]

Abit random i know but i could'nt help but notice that you don't seem to have a fan on your engine lol! Or is it hidden behind the intercooler piping? :thumbs: A bit of a fail i know lol but it don't look like you have one!

 

[LuPix_S15]

Ross - I've got twin electric fans which are attached to the aftermarket rad (big silver Japspeed one). That's why I removed the viscous stock fan as there's no need for this anymore on mine and gives me so much more space to work on the pulley/belt area of the car

 

[JaseYpk]

quick question about the hoses,
obviously all the 'air carrying' hoses are simple, unclip, and clip new one in. but what about the fluid carrying ones?

ie the fuel hoses? what happens if i get an air bubble in the hose when i fit another one? would this be a major drama, or would the engine cry for a second, then carry on?

same for the rad hose - air bubbles an issue?

cheers!

 

[LuPix_S15]

Jase - don't worry about the fuel hose... you can pull them off and put them back on and carry on running the car no probs. Your main issue is fuel pissing everywhere when you pull them off lol :wack:


As for the rad hose yes any dumping of the coolant and subsequent fill up of coolant will result in some sort of air pocket that needs to be removed. My suggestion is:

1. Engine cold with no coolant proceed to fill up using main rad filler neck up to the point of it overflowing out of said neck.
2. Remove the coolant bleed point (small 10mm bolt) which is on the top right of the engine block at the front not far from where the top rad pipe joins the block.
3. With the bleed point bolt removed but in your right hand, proceed to gently blow down the rad filler neck (ensure your lips make a seal) and you should hear bubbling noises. Blow harder if possible.
4. Keep blowing until there is coolant coming out of the bleed point.
5. Once you feel fluid and no more bubbles exiting the bleed point then put the bolt on quickly (still blowing) and start to tighten this bolt.
6. Stop blowing and then fully tighten the bolt.

This should remove pretty much all air trapped in the system - well I use the above method and have had no issues :thumbs:

 

[JaseYpk]

sweet! hose time! haha

 

[TurboAL]

As lupix(james) has sugested, fuel lines can be disconnected and reconnected and won't cause any problems just that you will get a spray of fuel. you can depressuries the fuel system by running the engine and removing the fuel pump fuse. This will cut the fuel pump and the engine will splutter and come to a stop. Turn the ignition off and replace the fuse when the work is complete. and i'm sure his method of bleeding the system works. This is how i bleed the system and never had any problems.

Put fluid into the radiator until it comes to the brim,
Pump both rad hoses and the water level within the rad will drop. Top up and repeat proceedure until no more water can be put in the radiator.
undo the bleed nipple and remove, fluid will trickle out, let it bleed until there is a constant steam.(make sure the level in the radiator remains near the brim this may require pouring fluid in at the same time) and replace the bleed nipple.
Now switch the car engine on with the rad cap still removed.
Put the heater blows on full.
Allow the system to warm up until the raditor fills walm and the heater blower is pushing out warm air.
Replace raditor cap.
Bleed proceedure complete.
I would advice taking the car for a bit of a drive afterwards and make sure engine temperature remain stable without the temperature gauge going abnormally high. If it does this would sugest that there is still air in the system. Stop the car immediatly if this does occur.

 

[LuPix_S15]

^^^ yeah TurboAl has provided a better and more complete procedure TBH. I always forget to swtich on the heaters full and let the coolant flow around the entire system including heater matrix etc :wack:


Pumping rad hoses does also help immensely. Nice one Al :thumbs: