niggles to solve after FMIC install

[Dazz0i]

well, i got my FMIC bolted on today.... and.... i've got one mechanical problem and two cosmetic.

basically, the "instructions".... (workin' from shite pictures as i can't read japanese!) told me to to plumb a pipe in....

this pipe here

it said to "T" into where the blue arrow is, but i'm now guessing that i should be running a pipe across the engine bay like the red hose, marked my green arrows?
if this is correct, where should it be "T'd" into? back of the BOV?

the result of this one being wrong (and i noticed it straight away and didn't do it again) was increased boost, unlimited i'd assume, but i didn't power long enough to find out, just lifted off!
so, that's the mechanical.

Cosmetic, the first isn't really a problem... just would like a quick picture of someone that's fitted a FMIC (perferably with an areo bumper) so i can see where it wants trimming, where the pipe work is! (secretly i'm calling on nicely to lend a hand with this one! )

finally, the 2 bottom brackets on my cooler, aren't anywhere near the body work, no chance of getting a bolt through! so ATM, it's only fixed by the piping and the top centre bolt, surely this isn't right????

right, cheers, hopefully all to be sorted soon!

Apologies for stealin' pictures, it's too dark to take my own right now!!!! lol

 

[Yakozan]

The boost pipe from the solenoid should go into your intercooler piping somewhere. My piping had a niple on the cold side much like what is shown in the picture. But you could mount it to the hot side too. Don't know what's best. Alot of kits have it on the cold side, but I've been led to believe that it's better to have the boost hoses as short as possible. However the boost should be lower on the cold side.

About not getting the bottom brackets on.
The Intercooler is supposed to be tilted abit. That's why alot of people need to trim the chassis-legs.
If you tilt it abit. You should be able to fit the brackets.

 

[Dazz0i]

the brackets are different between themselves, they're "bent" differently. i don't think it'll tilt any further back either.

they're about 2 inchs lower than the body work! i'll have to get a picture to explain it, but i can't see them ever meeting up!

so, now i need to find a nipple to plumb into the cold side?

 

[Nicely]

This is where you boost nipple come into play. The nipple goes into the joiner between the hot pipe and IC pipe. Attach the boost hose to the nipple. Remember: short boost pipes. :nod:

The bottom brackets should attach into two of the undertray bolt holes.

Its going to be a case of try and trim with the bumper, I'm afraid. I can take some photos, but not till at least tomorrow.

 

[Nicely]

 

[Dazz0i]

yea, tomorrow is great, cause the bumper isn't here, it's at a mates... i'll go back tomorrow after lookin' closely at some pictures.

there's just no way i can see my bottom mounts reaching the undertray. i don't think even if i was to drill the hole out for the top bracket, would i be able to make them reach. this would also mean that i don't want to be trimming the bumper yet??? cause if the IC has to move, the cutting might well be wrong!

as for a nipple, the kit that came with it is infact 2 different "T's" and not a nipple. i know boost pipes want to be as short as possible, but, wouldn't the nipple being on the cold side be more of an accurate reading of what's actually going into the lump?

cheers!

 

[kieran]

sprry for the hijack but why short nicely? mine runs the same as the red boost pipe on the picture above is this wrong?

dazzo1 will it not tip back because the intercooler is hitting on the chassis legs? this is what yakozan ment by needing to trim the chassis legs, i had to do this too seems scarey but actually when you come to doing it, its a doddle :thumbs:

 

[Dazz0i]

nah, they're well bashed out the way! hammer time! it all fits in it's running down with the front uprights!

 

[Nicely]

Where do the standard boost feeds come off? The actuator operates by taking an accurate reading of the boost as it leaves the turbo. It has nothing to do with what enters the block. The shorter the hoses, the more accurate the reading. Trailing a hose from the cold side can cause spikes.

If you've got a day or two, get a boost nipple off Apex and plumb it in :nod:

 

[Dazz0i]

yea, i'll give apex a call in the morning. i thought i read that all kits from them now come with one!

the car is still driveable, just obviously, no lead foot action!

 

[Nicely]

If you replaced the original hose, that's why its over-boosting. The original hose has a restrictor in it...

 

[Yakozan]

I think there is a boost pipe going to the carbon canister from the intake manifold.
It must be that one the instructions says to "T" in to.

Nicely. However, the stock boost pipe from the boost solenoid goes to the cold-pipe.

 

[Dazz0i]

ahh, didn't know that. so if i use the original pipe in the place that it's currently plumbed into, it should be ok???

i believe it's currently T'd into the carbon caniser??? correct???

i'd take a guess at it doesn't matter where it gets a feed from? it probably only needs the boost pressure to close the valve? not to actually read anything!?

 

[Yakozan]

ahh, didn't know that. so if i use the original pipe in the place that it's currently plumbed into, it should be ok???

i believe it's currently T'd into the carbon caniser??? correct???

i'd take a guess at it doesn't matter where it gets a feed from? it probably only needs the boost pressure to close the valve? not to actually read anything!?

Maybe. Give it a try. But keep an eye on the boost gauge. Or even better. Have a friend keep an eye on the boost gauge while you do the driving :thumbs:

Added a picture of what I think is the hose the instructions are reffering too.
Not 100% sure though. Check if it goes into the intake manifold around the same area as the larger pipe from the cold pipe goes into.

Someone might want to confirm that this is a boost feed.
All I know is that I blocked it when throwing out the carbon canister.

 

[Dazz0i]

yep, that's the one it's T'd into.

so i'm guessin' that the restrictor in that pipe is what's causing it to over boost, i'll chuck it back in tomorrow and go back to sensible boosting! (hopefully)

 

[Vandal]

A lot of Chinese made coolers don't have a vac nipple for the turbo. If you don't have one, it will be easy to have one welded. See: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/FMIC-install-boost-increase-t188722.html

 

[A'PEXi]

you bashed the chassis legs with a hammer? must have been a massive hammer haha, theyre pretty dam strong....

as for the vacuum hose, pretty much any vacuum will do, i tee'd mine off the one ontop of the blow off valve... normally the nipples come in the tb side cooler pipe, but the mspec doesnt....

 

[Nicely]

Probably quicker and simpler with the hose nipple :nod:

 

[Dazz0i]

one problem solved... the brackets are now all attached!

it's still over boosting though! even though i've changed the pipe back to the old one with the restrictor in it! it blew one of the IC pipes off... it was loud! lol

Idle now seems gittery, could this be due to the pipe not being in the right place???

just need the pictures off nicely now to see what i'm trimming, and where!

 

[Nicely]